I didn’t wake up in the night, which is unusual, but I seriously think my bathroom ordeal and the hurricane the night before just left me without anything left…I heard the alarm go off and got up pretty fast, but I was so glad it was not the 6am version. 

Basically, the rhino walk was supposed to start at 6am, but Mat was able to arranged for us to go later since we had 16 people and could dictate that. Brekky was some hard boiled eggs and bread with pb for us- but I saw other people eating beans and hot dogs later (not that I’d have gone for either). But I frankly didn’t want to eat much either way. We had a thermos in our room which Bryan discovered was filled with boiling hot water, despite being filled the night prior, so we had made some instant coffee mix that they offered which we brought with us to brekky.

We both took turns after brekky heading to the bathroom- which was not so bad…but not very productive either…and headed to reception for our morning rhino walk. This was basically a game drive where we’d be able to get out and walk closer to the rhinos. While this sounds a tad dangerous it’s really not. Rhinos are pretty lazy in general and not aggressive- it’s not like hippos, which are really dangerous and you’d never be able to get out near (at least closer than we were at Kruger)…

We started out seeing more Nyala, which are really pretty antelope that are very common even while walking around in the camp. They seem to be everywhere! We even saw some babies who were totally cute- and we saw a vervet monkey which was great as it was the first one Bryan had just seen on his own.

We had Mbura again and this time our truck was Jon, Kristin, Jillian, Marina, Amber and Lindsay with us- all with the same objectives. We saw a few elephants and giraffes pretty quickly- the giraffes closer, while the elephants were hiding in the brush, as well as of course impala, nyala and even pumba before we came across the rhinos.

It was a mom with a juvenile and they were sleeping with their butts to each other, which is a way to protect themselves. We actually saw rhinos at the watering hole doing this too in groups of 3 or more. White rhinos are apparently much more social and found in groups while the black rhino is pretty solitary- and in our experience also have only ever seen one at a time. The white rhinos are also more plentiful- although in the entire world there are only about 24k rhinos of any kind total (even javan and Indian which are suffering and in the hundreds vs thousands). Sadly poaching is still a major problem and from 2008 to 2018 the number of rhinos poached went up significantly from 8 to over 1200…so it’s not a problem of the past. Thankfully due to major stars like Jackie Chan, Michele Yeoh and some other Asians, they have created strong campaigns across Asia to curb the desire for rhino horn…which many Asians think cures everything, especially erectile dysfunction. Unfortunately for the rhinos, their horns are merely keratin- like our fingernails- and you could bite your own nails and get the same benefit…but it doesn’t stop the decimation completely. Even the head game warden of Hlane was assassinated in his home in the park in retaliation from poachers (which was recent)…so it’s a pretty sad problem.

But we were at a point in our tour now where we could get out of the truck and walk toward the rhinos to see them closer. Mbura and the guide for the other truck had a stick with a ball on it- which they specified was not to hit the rhinos with but to wave around (since they have terrible eyesight) or bang on something if needed. Of course we would not go terribly close but it was pretty cool, especially when you can hear them snort- or fart, which they do a lot of. They were pretty lazy and sleepy but the baby watched us a bit and it was adorable. We were all thrilled and probably spent about 15-20 minutes enjoying them. It was hilarious because Janna wanted to get a picture where with the perspective , it looked like the rhino was poking her in the butt- which was totally a Jon move and I was surprised he also didn’t follow suit.

When we got back in the truck I told Mbura we had ordered some lions, which made him laugh, but he said that wouldn’t be on this journey (instead, when we did the 1pm drive). I asked him what “Let’s go” was in Swathi which made him laugh and as much as I gathered it was “esembele”, but I will double check. Mbura said I reminded him of one of his teachers who was very strict he said (I think he meant precise, personally) but that I was ready to keep things moving along…because as we know, some people like to sit and talk rather than drive…but we want to see animals so we gotta keep moving.

After the drive we had a few hours before lunch and I decided to take a shower since I’d missed out the last few days. It was actually pretty nice and was a good solid temp and even got too hot at one point, so it was comfortable and manageable. It had started getting hot already, so I put on shorts and a tank top- and Bryan was nowhere to be found when I’d gotten out, but I could see him and Jon out the window looking at something.

So I went out and discovered they were looking at a male rhino really close to our rooms on the other side of the fence. He seemed curious and even started walking toward us. Alma and Jaqcuie decided the thin barbed wire and electric fence were not going to hold this guy if he got mad, but the three of us didn’t want to move- as I knew backing up could actually encourage and empower him to become more aggressive if he thought we were conceding somehow. So not like we were trying to challenge him but we figured just standing our ground was best and we got close together in case we needed to. I could tell Bryan was a bit nervous and he was trying to pull me away by my waist, but we just waited while the rhino continued to approach and assess us. He kept looking from one side to the other, trying to see what we were and we just stayed still. He got within 15 feet of us and the fence, which was pretty amazing, before he decided we were boring and trotted off…but that was totally amazing and unexpected as we got even closer than we had on the walk, so that was a total bonus.

It was just about lunch time now which was a burrito with fake chicken, cabbage, carrots and an almost peanut butter like sauce but not quite. It was good- not as good as the dinner one, but it was still good. We ate pretty quickly and went back to the room to get ready for the 1pm game drive which we hoped we’d see lions.

Mbura was happy to see us again and this time Marina had gotten in the other truck, but Jillian got in with us. Amber and Lindsay were a bit late, so they didn’t get in our trucks, and we had Mat, Alma and Jacquie- and Marta. Bryan sat up front with Mbura because he wanted to be able to take pics and it was the only other outside edge spot left.

We didn’t see too much before we pulled up to an overlook called “Bird Hide” where we could see a waterhole. We had to climb some stairs to get to this part, so the guide from the other truck took Carlene and Gordon in the truck to a flatter picnic spot down the way where they could get out.

There wasn’t a ton of activity but we did see a marabou stork which is the most unfortunate looking bird. They are HUGE and just hideous…we saw a lot of them in Uganda I remember and when they were flying around it was like a group of airplanes flying around because they were just so huge.

There was also a wildebeest and some other kinds of storks, which Jaqcvuie took a picture of and then realized there was a giant croc in her pic, right in front of them, laying on a rock. It was huge! We also saw a pair of purple something turacos- which are the official bird of Esawtini and according to Mat very rare to see one, nevermind a pair. Apparently this is also Alma’s favorite bird so they were really happy. We also had stopped by another much smaller watering hole where we’d seen some kudu and Bryan spotted a large nile monitor. It was actually pretty hard to see but he started moving and it had to have been about 6 ft long, so quite impressive. My friend Mike had one named Peaaley who was about 3-4 feet and he was a funny escape artist and one time when I was visiting him I was sleeping and Peasly got out and saddled up next to me. He was generally friendly , but if you know anything about monitors they can totally take a few fingers off or even your hand without much fuss. Apparently they like to lay their eggs in termite mounds because the temperature is perfect for gestation and over time the termite bury them into the thick, concrete like walls of the mound- and the babies claw their way out with their crazy sharp claws when they are born. Monitors also eat croc eggs and are the most significant predator to affect crocs.

Of course I enjoyed seeing everything but much of it you needed binocs for. Bryan spotted some monkeys or baboons on the far shore too- but I was hoping for lions still! When we walked back down the stairs the other truck was still gone and we had to wait for them to come back before we could take off. Of course Mat was in the bushes turning over rocks looking for things and marina found some trash she brought back to the truck to throw away- but Mbura was shocked and dismayed as he cited it was a snare used by poachers. So thankfully Marina saved a few animals from likely death by finding that and Mbura brought it back to camp where they have a display that’s like a fence wall about 7 feet high made up of all the snares they’ve found so far in the park. Jillian got a good picture of it, she thought, but I didn’t see it until we were leaving.

Finally the other truck came back and I again ordered up some lions with Mbura so we headed off. We really didn’t see much for a while, which was a bit disappointing as I feel like in other parks we’ve seen a lot of things in between the really exciting things. Maybe it was because it was midday- but it wasn’t hot, so I don’t think the animals were napping, I think maybe there just aren’t as many as we’re used to seeing in bigger parks that don’t have the fencing boundaries for the different animals…we had to go through one fence to get to the rhino part, then another to get to the elephant part and yet another to get to the lion part….which is very different from most parks we’ve been to before.

But suddenly we see something up in the road- and this time we’re the first truck- and we realize it is one of the male lions laying there in the road. So we slowly approached as he got up and started walking toward us. He actually passed us and kept going- and his path intercepted the other truck, but we’d also seen the other brother laying up ahead on the side of the road so we pulled up near him. 

We were very close- less than 15 feet and you could see his eyes, his expression and while he seemed disinterested, he also seemed annoyed with a bite on his head. It looked like a giant puncture or even like a gunshot wound (probably from his brother) that he was rubbing with his paws and shaking his head over. He was mostly sleeping and being pretty boring while the other guy was walking around and started roaring. For just a second we were jealous until our guy sat up and started roaring too, right in front of us! It is amazing how loud they can be, because it’s like this sound that comes from deep inside them and it just projects like crazy, so it carries quite far. It really was extremely fortunate and special for all of us and we enjoyed watching him for at least 30 minutes. The other guy started coming back too and se we got to interact a bit more with him, as well, but then it was time to go. The other truck took pof and Mbura lingered a bit longer but we too had to go.

Everyone was just in awe and totally thrilled with that- even Kristin who was not scared as much as amazed and honored for the experience. The funny part was she was taking a vid selfie when the lion started roaring so she just kept filming and she keeps mouthing “Oh My God” the whole time because it was so crazy. I know she never thought she‘d be cool with being 20 feet from a lion roaring and not be totally petrified. All the wonders of the experience finally hit home for her too.

We got back to reception and Krisitn went to try and connect with Meka while she’s in the Bahamas, and we got some ciders and wanted to hang out by the watering hole. When Bryan and I got there, we saw some giraffes a bit down the way so we walked over to try to get closer- but they are pretty shy and very elusive so they are quick to turn and go. We got to enjoy them for a bit, and I even got video of one flicking his tongue around trying to reach branches (that again have 2-3 inch thorns that don’t phase them at all). When we headed back to the chairs Jon was sitting there and we opened our drinks and just sat there to enjoy the animals.

At least 5 rhinos came by, there were a couple hippos in the water already and then 3 giraffes came by to drink too, Of course there were many antelopes including nyalas, even kudu and impala- and Jon said behind the hill (where we couldn’t see but they had from the restaurant) there was an elephant there too for a bit. We had a few hours to kill so the guys were talking, I was writing and eventually Krisitin came by trying to test the boundaries of the wifi and facetime us with Meka, but it got all pixelated and she had to go back. Eventually though she came back to us and sit with us as the sun was starting to set.

Lindsay also came over to chat with us a bit as we watched the bats coming out (not the fruit bats) and feeding off all the bugs that were plentiful (but not bothersome for us). It had started getting colder though and at this point I was pretty cold, so we went back to the restaurant where the building blocked a bit of the breeze and was a bit more comfortable- where we stayed until dinner.

Dinner was a boiled potato, corn on the cob, coleslaw (which I normally do not like at all but thought was pretty good) and some tomato cucumber “salad”. This time it wasn’t a ton of food, but I was far from hungry either, so although I probably could have gotten another potato I didn’t really need it.

Mat ended up surprising the group with a cake in honor of Gordon and Carlene’s 60^th anniversary- and even one for Lindsay who would be turning 40 shortly after our trip ended…we sang happy anniversary (jokingly) and happy bday to Lindsay and then everyone (because a lot of people had bdays coming up, but Lindasy’s was the only “significant” round number bday to be had, and as 40 is a biog one that was the real reason for it.ed, hoping others would follow. Sadly, I don’t think anyone from our group did but a few people from other tour groups did so there were about 6-7 of us. The first part was easy because it was basically just walking and clapping, but then they started giving us step steps, raising your leg then switching kind of stuff and then it just got ridiculous for me because I suck at dancing. Then they changed it up even more and I just pretty much was trying to march and clap and not laugh too hard at myself.

There was to be a traditional dancing ceremony shortly after dinner, so we headed over to the reception area to sit around the fire (though not close and it was getting cold) and wait for the dance to start. The poor people dancing were basically only wearing shorts and clothes so they must have been freezing at least until the dancing started. They seemed a tad uncertain/ unsure of their plan but eventually it got started. 

It was pretty dark and hard to see but I recorded the vids for the soundtrack basically so I could use it to set some pics and vids if needed. The dances were each about 3 minutes long or so and apparently my phone died so I put it in my pocket.

Of course they got to a point in the night where they wanted the audience to participate and I knew people would have a hard time doing it so I got up, and star

After that we dispersed for bed. We decided not to pack yet as the foundation of packing our backpacks involves using the sleeping bag as the bottom anchor point- and we needed them for that night…so we figured we’d get up a bit early and pack then…