I heard someone else’s alarm go off and decided to get up. Because of that we did get to see the sunrise, which was really pretty although muted behind the clouds for a bit- but it still made for a nice view. Bryan’s head was really bothering him for some reason and he was begging for Advil. I found the meds though wished I’d kept out my lidocaine cream (but hadn’t needed it so it’s buried in my big bag) because this morning I woke up to a bite on my ankle, right where my shoe hits and it’s making me nuts. I should have gotten my flip flops out…

Surprisingly brekky was French toast- I thought it’d be fruit, yogurt, cereal and bread with pb or jam…but Martin went all out despite the early hour. Kristin skipped brekky today and when I asked Jon how he slept, he said “She wasn’t hungry and didn’t want to come down today”. I told him I figured as much but that wasn’t what I’d asked him either- so he said apparently “I didn’t sleep enough”.

This morning was really hot and muggy and I was already sweating so at least I made the wise choice to wear shorts- and the heat has been making people really tired and sleepy all day. Bryan has hardly stayed awake and while I slept for a bit at first, I opted to type this up and try to catch up to present tense- although I still think my actual bday- the day we left Xai Xia might be missing…

We had to stop at a pharmacy along the way as Carlene is getting swollen ankles and Becky is getting and ear infection. Jon’s feet are swelling a bit too but he shouldn’t take meds without serious consult from his dr due to his heart problems.

The day is proving to be just about the hottest yet (turned out to be 95) and everyone is a bit groggy and uncomfortable…we still have a long way to go. I actually have no idea what time it is and really don’t want to…but I heard it was a 10 hour trek.

It was really great to see Xai Xai and Vilanculos, but they are so far from anything else, it’s a bit of a haul. I’m not sure Mat will keep the same plan when doing future trips.

It ended up being about 12 hours but in Bilene we found the most advanced gas station we’ve ever seen. It had a/c which was amazing. I don’t think on any of the overland trips have we seen a place “out there” that had that. They even had a Nespresso machine set up, which all of our truck really went to town over. 

The town is bustling and it was a tad intimidating getting out of the truck because people were trying t o sell us things- even through the window. Mosty cashews, which we really love but I can’t take the risk that I will get sick from eating something handled by others- I don’t even let others reach in and grab from the food I share etc at home- it’s always pour it into a cup or hold your hand out…but if someone touches anything with their hands, I can’t eat it. The papayas and fruit would have been fine, but if you buy one thing then it becomes a competition. It’s hard because I don’t know that any tourists ever buy things from the local vendors and they really need money.

One kid was so crazy to sell us nuts, he jumped in the middle of the road while we were going 60 and barely got out of the way as Hondo was honking at him to move. Bryan and Jon both saw it and thought it was a pretty close call- but it honestly could be that selling us a few bags of nuts means they can eat or feed their family or not.

By now it had cooled down quite a bit as the sun had just set and we were all relieved. We turned down a sandy road that would take us to our lodging and barely made it under a low hanging powerline. It was also a little sketchy because there were hills and some VERY close calls with the trees- like their trunks- but also the branches- and it was a little windy. We actually almost didn’t make it through the front gate even as there were mere inches to spare on either side. Hondo is a total pro knowing the parameters of the truck and what he can fit through or not.

But we were here and excited because the place had a pool (but it was too cool now) a bar and even mini golf…of course none of which were open, but it’s fine. It would have been fun top play mini golf in Africa. The course had little rubber mats instead of artificial turf- not sure how that’d change the game or not, but it would have been fun- though there wasn’t a lot of time either. We were getting their at dusk and planned to leave at 630am for another (shorter) day of driving.

We were divided into our houses and initially Mat was going to put us in a room in a dorm with some of the others, but he mentioned an open room with beds for 4 people so we inquired about it. Apparently he was going to give it to Jon and Kristin, but we all agreed we’d rather party it up together than be separated.

The keys are literal skeleton keys which is a bit ridiculous and it’s hard to get in or out of the door- the door also didn’t want to stay closed without locking so someone had to let you in every time, but once we got everything in there, we had a bit of time before dinner. Krisitn was dying to take a shower and wash off the sweat from the day- then Jon and Bryan followed suit. I don’t like going to bed with wet hair (and while Kristin had a hair dryer) I just figured I’d quickly jump in the next morning and be fresh for the ride then. Usually I wouldn’t choose that and would prefer the night, but I think I was just too tired and while it was hot I didn’t feel terribly sweaty or gross…at least nothing that some wipes couldn’t help with.

The beds here were a bit sketchy as the sheets seemed to have little bits of plants and what we thought were seeds in them and even I wasn’t going to sleep under them so I laid my scarf over my pillow and we got out our sleeping bags. Kristin had long since decided that already and this time they took the single beds near the door and we got the double. It wasn’t dirty or whatever, but it’s just the first time I felt like I’d be happier in my sleeping bag. Especially since we were lucky to have a heat pump so had a/c which was pretty nice.

After all the sorting of things and getting some drinks (we had pretty much run out so we borrowed some boxed wine from Alma and 2 ciders from Mat), we were just kicking around waiting for dinner. Although we had a fridge, it wasn’t plugged in when we arrived (typical to save energy) and the drinks hadn’t been in long before we started to consume them. The wine was good, but warm white wine is not fantastic but I knew it would help me sleep a bit since I couldn’t do much on the truck. I did a lot of looking out the window because it was one of the days where we had a near full view rather than 2/3 or 1/3 because of the spaces between the window blocks and how the chairs line up with them. Unfortunately on the Kruger drive day we had the 1/3 view which was hard on my neck but I still spotted quite a bit, even that no one else saw. But these are not as fun days as the full view, when you can just barley turn your head and see everything.

We met up for dinner which was spaghetti with fake meat (like beef cuts) for us with a sweet kind of bbq’ish flavor. I don’t think it was the chutney version we’d had before but it was also very good and I was super hungry. Mat debriefed us about the plans for the next day and Bryan and I went on the night walk with Mat and a few others, while Jon and Kristin stayed at a hot spot off Mat’s phone (but so were a ton of people and it makes it slow for everyone). We were on the search for chameleons, which he’d found on his previous trip to this location.

Right off, Jillian found a millipede, which a few people held, but I didn’t. I held one in Madagascar, so I’ve done it but I wasn’t into it right then. Their tiny legs are really grabby and so it’s like Velcro to your skin. It’s pretty amazing really but I was ok with the one time before.

We also found some beetles on trees- and an ant colony (of sizable ants) moving their nest so some of them were carrying eggs. Bryan nearly stepped on a good sized toad- and we ended up seeing a few more much smaller ones along the way. While traipsing around the property with our headlamps pon we must have slightly alarmed the owner whose yard we seemed to end up in as he was sitting around a patio table with some people. He sounded Australian perhaps but not sure and he inquired what we were doing. When Mat explained he asked one of the hired staff to take us to a back gate and let us out, where there were better types of bushes for that. They don’t like trees where they are out in the open, they prefer leafy, bushy branches where they can hide.

This is also apparently a boat launch that leads down to a beach and the lagoon. We could hear a ton of different toads and frogs really loud. The toads make a kind of grinding sound while the frogs chirp here and there but there were a ton. We made it to the water’s edge and found a ton of tadpoles who were just about to turn into frogs. Mat said there are no crocs here but I’m not sure how as the water is brackish and there IS inlet from the ocean…so while I trust him I wasn’t so sure…at least I knew I’d not be swimming in it!

The beach was sizable (although hard to see much in the dark) and I found some cute, mini versions of some of the shells I’d found in Vilanculos. As I shined my light I kept finding spider eyes- there were quite  few actually (so Bryan and I dubbed it Spider Beach because they lived in little holes and as you shined the light around you could see their eyes as they pulled back into their holes. Amber found one female that had a million babies riding around on her back. I’m not sure why but it was interesting to see.

It had started getting pretty dang windy though- but we had no idea what we were in for.

After the night walk we just went to our room to go to sleep, but pretty much the wind picked up even more. Branches, nuts and whatever else were falling on the roof making huge bangs and we think a tree branch just kept knocking the roof to- which was metal so it was all really loud. It made for a pretty ridiculous time trying to sleep. At that point too, it started raining like crazy and we were all in a bit of disbelief. Kristin seemed really worried, but there wasn’t much we could do. I mean I was thinking about how we’d get out in the morning if we were trying to drive in that- or get up the hills in wet sand…or if it got too muddy and not be possible. Mostly I thought we might not be going anywhere the next morning. 

Jon fell asleep pretty fast and Bryan too as he’d taken a Sudafed PM since he’s struggled sleeping the night before, so they were no help, but Kristin and I were awake all night- probably her more than me. I kind of like a storm, but that was like a hurricane and the closest I’d ever like to get to one. It really was crazy. At one point the power box sparked and blew up and I just hoped a live wire wasn’t down on our house! Over time too, the metal on the roof was peeling back, little by little and I thought for sure we’d have a big leak…so I ran around picking everything up off the floor just in case it started pouring in.