I didn’t really feel prepared to leave but there wasn’t much more I could do to get things done. For so long this trip seemed so far off then suddenly it was here! I hadn’t researched anything about Eswatini (formerly Swaziland) or even familiarize myself with the itinerary. I just knew that I wanted to go- and the rest will sort itself out.

This time, our best friends Jon and Kristin decided to come with us. After hearing about our Africa adventures so many times, they decided they couldn’t miss it this time! It’s funny because we’ve known them for 20+ years but never been on vacation together, so this will be great.

As well, we know Marina and Jillian are coming- our MZ volunteers who went with us last time to Uganda. As well, Alma (the guide’s former wife) and her bestie Jacquie- who went with us the last TWO times- will also be there! Otherwise we won’t know anyone besides Mat…and we have no idea how many people will be there.

We took an uber to the airport and the driver was really fun. He asked us about a lot of our trips and travels and when it came to our former shark dive with great whites, he said, “Hats off to you ma’am and sir” and he kept calling us ma’am and sir which was endearing. The ride took a long time- almost an hour from Redmond just to Bellevue and we knew we were going to miss our Spot Saver appointment that Kristin had made for us…but whatever. Security wasn’t that bad at least and we had plenty of time to kill. Despite being later than we thought, we got to the kiosk just before Jon and Kristin who actually arrived at the airport sooner than us, but had to walk from light rail to the Delta area. But we all packed light, got our bags and boarding passes and went through security which only took about 30 minutes total.

We were pretty hungry and found a place called Floret that was vegetarian, but also very expensive. As a couple, each of our bills came to just under $100 and Bryan was the only one who got 2 drinks! I hadn’t seen the prices or I might have skipped a drink, but I also wanted to be tired for the ride because I don’t sleep well on planes. But we had a 9 hour layover in London and wanted to get out to see some sights so I hoped I’d be a little sleepy for this ride and the drink would help.

Right out of the gate the flight really pretty turbulent and I’d say it was one of the top 5 most turbulent I’ve experienced. It wasn’t super sustained, but it did keep happening frequently throughout the flight so we had to plan bathroom trips and stuff accordingly. 

For some reason it didn’t let us pick our meals for this flight online and Bryan assumed it was because we didn’t get one. I had my doubts but did nothing to figure it out otherwise…but suddenly they were handing out our meals and I knew that the veg pasta would be gone before they got to us. Actually, funny enough we’d met up with Jon and Kristin to go paddle boarding a few days  before leaving and I was telling them how it frustrates me when non-veg people eat the veg options up and there’s nothing left for us- which happens at parties and such all the time…and if you’ve read any other of my trips, has happened to me on the plane too- despite meal planning and trying to get someone’s attention to prevent the problem head on.

I knew Bryan wouldn’t ask (as is his way which also has come up in past trips), so I figured out how to ding the flight attendant and told her the situation and we needed 4 veg meals please. She said she’d save us some…well wouldn’t you know it, right when they got to Jon they said no more pasta and gave him beef, which he didn’t even realize. But thankfully the flight attendant caught this (she was on our aisle side and Jon was being served by another) and she fixed it for us- so phew. I thought the meal was fine and liked it enough, but Bryan said he didn’t- and maybe it didn’t sit well with Kristin.

Poor Kristin was asleep and suddenly woke up feeling sick and so she went to the back of the plane and thought she was going to pass out. Then she was about to puke…unfortunately she did, but she felt much better after that, especially as I gave her some of my anti nausea meds. Her feet got really swollen too which doesn’t normally happen so we think it was the combo of her leggings, wearing sandals, drinking some wine with her meal (which she doesn’t normally do) and stress/ anxiety- but thankfully it passed and she seemed better especially by the time we got to London.

As we were getting up to stretch while waiting to deplane, two people were waving at us- Marina and her daughter Jillian! We hadn’t coordinated much with before the trip and other than finding out they were both coming- they asked for our flight info- and that was that. I probably should have made extra effort to connect in advance- and it would have saved us a $100 Uber ride to the airport, but I was so busy and stressed out leading up, I just didn’t have time for anything and it didn’t occur to me really…I just knew they’d be there so here they were a few rows behind waving at us!

We all got off the plane and took a few minutes to sort ourselves, do intros- because Jon and Krisitn don’t know Marina and Jillian…and the guys went to make sure our luggage didn’t come off the carousel. We were pretty sure it was going all the way through- it had JBG stickers on the bags, but we forgot to ask. Jillian and Marina said their Delta agent confirmed the bags going all the way through without our intervention so we took off for the city. We asked someone which tube lines to take- which was good because the map was so small I couldn’t read it. Even Jillian couldn’t read it and she’s 23, so not sure how helpful it is to have them printed…but Piccadilly line to Earls Court, then District line to Tower Hill and we’d be where we wanted to go: The Tower of London and Tower Bridge. 

It was about an hour on the train which wasn’t bad, and Jillian knew of a place where we could stash our carryon bags for the day so we didn’t have to carry them around. Jillian and Marina’s were sizable, partially because Jillian isn’t even going home after this- she’s going straight to Madrid for a teaching gig for the next year. There’s a site called Nanny Bags (or something like that) and they are stores where people offer up secure space for your luggage while you do things around town- so kind of like Uber for your bags. It was very useful and we were just a block from the entrance to the tower of London.

Tix were about $32 pounds, and I am not even sure of the conversion rate so whether it’s on par dollar to pound or usually the pound is more, but it’s not cheap- but it’s what we came to do. I’d been there years ago when I was in college and visiting my friend who lived in Spain. We wanted to do a quick break (for her) and chose London at Xmas time, as I had a few cousins we stayed with in Notting Hill (which was pretty cool I must say). So she and I had done the tower and walked around quite a bit, but Bryan and Jon had never been to London- though Kristin had when their oldest daughter was 5 (so 22 years ago). I remember standing in front of one of the buildings that was built in 1080, and thinking how crazy it was it was “modern” vs like a pyramid- and it had withstood all that time. It impressed me then and still did today.

We got lucky with the weather and it was like 70’s and overcast and never rained. We did the tower for a few hours and then made our way to Tower Bridge but apparently it closes at 5pm (to go up in it) and the last person went inside as we walked up. Not the biggest of deals as seeing it at all is cool- but it’s definitely the second time now I haven’t gotten to go in, but it’s ok. We saw some food trucks on the way and one served crepes so Kristin inspired us to stop and get some- which was really good as we didn’t realize how hungry we were actually having not eaten since the egg muffin sandwich on the plane at like 10am.

But with the tube ride back and not knowing how security would be to get back into the terminal, we had to make our way and fight the rush hour traffic going back. It was busy but not too bad, and security was easy enough and soon we were back at our gate. 

We tried to find a place to eat and sit down but Heathrow does things differently where they keep you away from the boarding areas in a general “food court” mall kind of thing- so everyone from every flight is waiting there and it’s hard to find a seat. We found a restaurant which sounded good but everything we wanted they didn’t have (and there wasn’t much veg stuff either). I think the most surprising thing is they sold virgin mojitos but when I asked for a regular one, seemed surprised and said they didn’t do that…which is really odd because usually the mint is the hard part to keep in and fresh, not the rum? I got mac n cheese which was good- but Bryan’s veg dog left a lot to be desired…and everyone was pretty “meh” on the whole thing which was too bad. Maybe we should have skipped it because we were going to get a meal on the plane- at least we thought so…but when you get on at 1pm it’s also not “typical”’ meal time either so you never know. Ours was another pasta dish but it was better than the last- and that was for sure arranged in advance.

Jon and Kristin were behind us this time and we were in the middle and window seats- which is always a bit weird since I have to go to the bathroom a lot and don’t usually want the inside. Maybe it would have been better to choose Bryan and me across the aisle while Jon and Krisitn took the middle and window but whatever. I did not make that plan- and I don’t feel bad about asking to go to the bathroom. I try to do it when it’s convenient for the aisle person and they are awake, but I also won’t sit and stress if I have to go- and will just ask them. 

Somehow Jillian had compression socks which Kristin used on this flight- and had the window seat to put her legs up which made a world of difference for her. Jon has these night terrors where he wakes up fighting something and has accidentally hit Kristin in his sleep and Kristin was so worried he’d do it on the plane- mostly because usually it involves him screaming FUCK as he’s punching or kicking…and apparently he did do it once during the flight and yelled, but we didn’t notice and I was right in front of him so either he wasn’t that physical and or everyone had their headphones on too and were watching movies and listening to music. So it didn’t cause a scene, but put Kristin on alert a bit so she didn’t sleep too much after that. None of us did really- except Jillian and Marina. Marina is super tall and usually gets the bulkhead rows and the two of them were sprawled out leaning over their trays when we went by to the bathroom. I hate that feeling of not being able to put your head down when that’s all you want…and usually my knees get really tight and start to hurt no matter what I do.

This was the first time I didn’t keep my bag with me under the seat actually. I always think I will store it above and then panic thinking I might need something (which I so rarely do) so I took the chance and it made a big difference for my comfort and being able to stretch out- although I tend to slide down in the seat no matter what I do. I drifted in and out as did Bryan and the others- but we had 10 hours to kill!

I watched a movie called “Pinball” on the first leg to London and then the “Bank of Dave” on the second. Both were kind of offbeat but really good. Pinball was about the guy who saved the game- as it was considered gambling and illegal in NYC for 30+ years and he got that overturned. The Bank of Dave was about a Brit who had been making loans within his community and decided to start a bank to help everyone- and all profits would go to charitable projects that would benefit the community further. But the established banking community was resistant. It’s a true story and while I won’t say what happened, it was good.

Once we landed in Johannesburg, we were really feeling it. The customs line was pretty long- probably about an hour. We had to exchange some money and then find our bags, which had long since been taken off the carousel and put in the unclaimed bags area- but they were all there! Bryan and I usually take bets on whose will be missing and when he said this to Jon, he was like, “Well I was feeling confident until you said that”! I told him not to worry because if anyone’s was missing, it’d be mine- but they were all there. 

Since our flight also arrived later we were probably pushing 3 hours since our shuttle was to be there- which happened to be a young kid named Vian (we think it’s his parents who own the hotel). He had been a bit worried but was relieved we finally appeared and took us to the parking lot to wait for his dad to bring the van around- which took a while and I’m not sure why since the ride was only about 10 minutes to the hotel, but maybe it was out being used for others while we were waiting. 

The hotel is austere, definitely part of the concession we make for the budget trips we take, but it was ok at least by our terms (however it turned out later that most people were not loving it). After greeting Mat, we did nap a little- and it was hard not to want to sleep the whole time till dinner, but then it’d mess us up big time…so we slept for a couple hours and then got up to see what was happening.

 Actually we also had no idea what time it was because we don’t have great phone plan for international travel and we’re only using wifi- and neither of our phones will change over…so it’s a bit of a guess. But it turned out we had about 1.5 hours till dinner so we took showers and sat outside with Mat and his (former) wife Alma, who we have been with on our last 2 trips too. Then Jacquie came up- she’s from Brazil and is Alma’s best friend- also with us on the last 2 trips so that was great to see them. We caught up a bit, they asked about MZ and I told them how hard this year has been not only for us as an org but in the animal welfare world entirely. It’s the worst it’s been in over 10 years and getting worse. There are a few reasons but the uptick in buying from breeders (and then subsequently backyard breeders, puppy mills etc) has created a glut of dogs especially that no one wants anymore now that they aren’t cute puppies. So the shelter is overflowing with German Shepherds and Huskies especially in the northwest- and of course pit bulls too…but we’re at a point where even healthy adoptable animals are in danger- and MZ hasn’t taken in a dog in like 5-6 months. We still have puppies from Xmas that are growing up with us- at our property, not even in foster homes…so it’s bad. We’ve been over capacity for months and it’s been hard…but not to be a Debbie Downer, I just shrugged my shoulders and we moved on.

Slowly a few of the others on our trip started to come out and visit on the picnic tables in front of our collection of rooms. We met Richelle from Ohio who is a textiles and fiber artist and does weaving and batiking. Then Janna and Briguitte who live in Idaho now (but B is from Germany originally and has the accent to prove it). They are all probably in their 60’s-70’s. Richelle came with Becky who we met just before dinner- an avid traveler who was just in Antarctica and South America earlier this year. As well we met Amber and Lindsay- 30’s ish ladies from Phoenix…and it’s Amber’s bday! Then lastly, Gordon and Carlene from Idaho also who are in their 70’s perhaps (we’d find out later Gordon was 87!?) and Carlene uses a cane and even a wheelchair to get around. It made me a bit sad I didn’t bring Leisha on this trip, but it’s not only the mobility issues with her it’s her fragile state of health…but Bryan said he’d have been worried the whole time otherwise.

It was time for dinner and our overland truck pulled around the corner. This one has stairs which is usually a ladder instead- but clearly for Carlene a ladder wouldn’t cut it. It’s got leather like seats and feels like a bus inside, but also has curtins- and we enter from the back whereas it was always the front the last 2 times. It seems nice though but doesn’t have a table like our last trip, so that’s a bit of a bummer, but we can still play games. I brought Taco Cat Goat Cheese Pizza which I was given for Xmas but have not yet played but it’s just a card deck so it’s easy to carry.

We are in a pretty wealthy area of Joberg (as they call it), which is always a bit unsettling  but clearly the safest place to be. The houses are really nice but every neighborhood as barbed wire or electric fence along the top of the surrounding walls- which is pretty common for South Africa in general. The remnants of apartheid are still quite evident, especially as you will never see a white person serving anyone like in restaurants etc. 

We were surprised when we went to the new mall that was built recently, not too far from the hotel and found a place called Tiger’s Milk, which is a really hip place. It’s big, there’s a dj or at least drum and bass type dance music playing, big tv’s. Somehow they had room for 19 people which include our driver Hondo (which I swear is a planet in Star Wars?) and Martin- who was our cook in 2017 too! So it was good to see him- as his cooking is great and never a problem for us being veg.

They had an entire 2 sided pull page menu of just drinks and then the main menu offered vegan patties for any burger, flatbread pizzas, veg tacos (jackfruit) and more- so it was a total score. Plus the Rand is like 18.5 to our $1 so dividing everything by about 20 you find the burger and fries is $7 and the entire liter of water we bought was $1.50. Drinks were like $5! Bryan and I both got a burger called the Evil Twin which had a slice of cheese and mushroom sauce on it- and fries…and it was as good as we’d hoped. The drinks too- which can be sketchy when you stray from beer, cider or wine. There are certainly NO mojitos typically- or if there are it’s hardy what you’d think of or call one- but theirs was great!

We did a brandy shot for Amber’s bday. None of us like brandy much but it’s all they had for shots so it was fine and fun. They gave her a piece of cheesecake and ice cream also with a sparkler on top- which was quite impressive as well…so definitely a thumbs up for Tiger’s Milk. Although definitely a chain type restaurant, but in Africa that means standards of service and quality of ingredients and safety so it’s usually a good bet.

Getting out of the parking lot at the mall  was interesting as this truck is quite large and there are gates to keep you from leaving in a hurry (high security). They also had cones set up to direct you toward the gate and they were the biggest cones I have ever seen: large blue ons as big as the person moving them! As Hondo squeaked through the gate with millimeters to space on either side I was impressed, but to make the turn onto the road he had to crank the wheel and the gate arms were definitely hit- but we have no idea if it was damaged as we kept going. I don’t think he knew.

We did a debriefing about the next steps- when we’d have breakky and leave, etc. It was about 9pm when we got back and we were tired so went to bed right away. But not unlike home, I woke up at 3am. I laid there for an hour and finally decided to get up and write this blog because I had time and why not. I am also very congested on one side, despite wearing masks of course on the plane. My throat hurts and I think it’s just the dry air and the higher elevation the plane flies, but I don’t know. I hope I am not getting sick, but I think I need decongestants or the diving will be hard. So I stressed a tad about that but I know Mat will take care of me and it won’t be the first request to go to a store for supplies. I would have gotten some last night at the mall where Tiger’s Milk was but I wasn’t feeling like that then- only upon trying to sleep. But either way,I can take congestion sick over stomach sick any day. Let’s hope I don’t have both!

So I’m here in the pitch black hotel room writing while Bryan is sleeping..it’s probably another hour before people are up and ready for 8am brekky, so I hope to try and sleep a bit more, but who knows…but at least I got all the randomness out of the way so today being the first real start of the trip, it will get more interesting and adventurous from here.